Almost A Bientot

Time to leave soon...I'm getting depressed just thinking about it!

I'm going to miss going to the baker's twice, sometimes three times a day to pick up a fresh baguette or pastry. I'm also going to miss the florists that line the walk to school and the metro as well. It makes me so sad to leave it all!

I think its going to be very different coming back to the States- everything here is small. Less is more, and I loved every second of it. Everything in the States is en masse from driving to shopping. Coming back it's going to be hard readjusting to the work obsession and fast  paced life style. It'll be nice having things open 24/7 and immediately available any day of the week, but I could easily trade that for a relaxing day in Paris any day. It'll be hard readjusting to processed food and the slow progression to local eating, the hastened meals while eating out at restaurants and the excessive presence of chain stores. But Paris will always be there, and I plan on coming back.

Till then, it's all about the sunshine and the beaches as summer comes up very soon. Paris could use some more sunshine, and I'm definitely not feeling as claustrophobic with the lack of tall buildings and wide open skies of San Diego. Now I have a bunch of great memories to take back with me.

Dali Exhibit at Centre Pompidou

After returning from the weekend in Brittany and Normandy, Monday morning was recovering from a long weekend and Monday evening was spent at the Salvador Dali exhibit at the Centre Pompidou! From the outside, Centre Pompidou doesn't look like much. I dont like the exterior personally...

But the inside was pretty cool and the Dali exhibit was even better. We got to see some well known pieces and some studies. There were movies that Dali did as part of his art in the Surrealist movement that were pretty interesting as well. Some of the stuff was interactive, like one of his paintings as a photo op where you can position yourself anywhere on the final picture. I def got one!

I thought it was very well done as an exhibit, but I really like Dali and Surrealism. It was totally worth the hour and a half wait on the very last day! Some people would say it wasn't. Both French and foreign people were waiting forever just to go through the exhibit out of curiosity for such crazy art done by a wacky guy with a wacky mustache to match. Some Americans thought the lines were too long for what was inside, but upon researching it to know what I was in for, it turned out some French reviews of the exhibit said the same thing. I think it just comes down to whether or not a person likes Dali or surrealism in general to appreciate the exhibit and decide if its worth going to. 

Weekend in Brittany & Normandy

The weekend before Easter, we took a trip out to Brittany and Normandy on the northern coast of France. Needless to say, it was absolutely amazing and beautiful:

We stayed in Saint Malo, a medieval town on the coast and it couldn't have been more picturesque or perfect as a retreat. As is with most super urban areas, Paris gets overwhelming with the sky high buildings and its easily claustrophobic, so it was nice to come out to a more open space by the ocean, just like home in San Diego! First on the itinerary was Mont Saint-Michel, the famous medieval abbey situated on a sort of island in the middle of an estuary. 

Aside from dominating the horizon, what makes Mont Saint-Michel unique is that the road leading to the island during a strong high tide is completely covered, and only when it is low tide does the road reveal itself. It was really cool! Part cathedral, part fortress, the abbey is at the very tip of the mount and is surrounded by a very tiny village of souvenir shops and little eateries that cater to the centuries of religious pilgrims and tourists that have come to Mont Saint-Michel. 

The little towns of the north tend to look more like they did during Medieval times, unlike Paris which was completely redone in the 19th century in the style for which it is known for today. Tiny, narrow streets with exposed wooden exterior. The abbey itself was enormous:

It was really cool, and the trip got even cooler as it went on. Our first night in Saint Malo, we went out for seafood as Brittany is well known for its high quality seafood coming from its waters. We spent the rest of the weekend eating some of the best seafood I've ever had- oysters, salmon, mussels and fries. It was heartbreakingly good :(

Our last day we went to Normandy to visit Omaha beach where troops landed on DDay to free France from the Nazi regime. Sometimes its easy to forget in the middle of being a tourist that being in France comes with being immersed in a lot of history, especially when it's as recent as World War II. The American cemetery is situated on the cliffs overlooking the landing beaches where literally thousands of soldiers arrived by land, sea, and air not expecting to come out of it alive. The sheer number of pure white marble crosses that sprawl across the cemetery reflects this number; many of them are graves for unknown soldiers who were never identified after their death.

 Near the entrance there is a museum that explains a lot of what the cemetery means to both Americans and the French who were freed by the men buried in it. It is said that the people of Normandy, of all the French, don't forget. They still commemorate D Day as a holiday, recognizing the World War II veterans and their sacrifice for the preservation of freedom. The mosaic on the ceiling of the chapel in the cemetery depicts a lot of this sentiment :

On the top is Lady Liberty sending the soldiers and ships to France, and the woman representing France crowns the dead soldier with a laurel wreath representing peace. To Normandy, the DDay invasion wasn't just about saving their country but preserving the values of freedom and liberty and protecting those rights as human beings, not just as Americans or British or Canadian soldiers. It was really sobering to be at Omaha beach that morning, I really appreciated going to see the cemetery and seeing history commemorated. Again, something that could never happen in America, but really amazing to see on the trip.

Week 7??

Where has the time gone?? We only just got here and yet were already half way through. Honestly I don't know what I've been doing for the last three weeks. Or rather, maybe it's just what daily life has become and it doesn't seem particularly special when you look at it day to day. Collectively, it is. I'm trying to do a mix of tourist things:

as well as "parisien" things. Paris Fashion Week was at the beginning of the month, and I had never thought I would be in Paris while it was actually happening. I have always followed the fashion shows online but never thought I'd be able to hang out outside and see the before and after excitement. Outside of the Vivienne Westwood and Alexander McQueen shows:

We even saw some well known fashion celebrities! I would never be able to do this at home- be right outside a world-renowned fashion show that magazines will soon be writing articles about and fashion trends will soon be following, all while fashionistas gather in their best outfits to come and admire the people going inside. Paris is, after all, one of the oldest fashion capitals of the world. I feel so fortunate to be here while this is going on.

In San Diego fashion does not occupy as daily life as it does here. At least the surburban area and college area where I spend most of my time. Here, EVERYONE cares to look nice, even the men are always dressed very well both young and old. The women aren't always wearing makeup either, but they are always pulled together. Furs on women and peacoats on men are standard here, whereas in the States its more seen as extravagant or luxe. I wish it was as acceptable over there, or rather I wish I had brought one of my furs here. I think coming back to Cali, I'll dress better. I want to keep Paris with me as long as possible!

The Ballet, Feb 14 at Opera Garnier

Can't say I've ever seen a ballet before. I've watched Swan Lake countless times on the internet but I had never been to one in person, let alone at the Opera Garnier, aka where Phantom of the Opera and scenes from the Fox cartoon movie Anastasia took place!

 The ballet we saw, Kaguyahime, was completely different from anything I had ever seen before and a new experience as far as modern  dance goes. My cousin was involved in several hiphop dance teams so I had seen her perform a couple times in the States, and I'd seen my best friend perform in her college recitals at our university's concert hall, but this Parisien experience was completely different from that.

First of all the setting : the Opera Garnier is beyond ornate and unbelievably beautiful in the most over the top way. It's like the Notre Dame for music! Beautiful carvings of angels, muses, and sculptures both inside and outside of the classical greats like Beethoven, Handel, Mozart, etc. the upmost inspired setting for the most inspired performances. A huge upgrade from the usual hotel ballrooms, convention centers, and modern but uninteresting performance halls typical for young performers in the States:

 The ballet was not as I had expected- despite the classical / baroque architecture the ballet itself was modern. The Opera Garnier, though it is classical, is first and foremost a performance hall. The ballet was called Kaguyahime, the story of a moon princess who came to Earth and grew to extraordinary beauty. She had earthly suitors who were made to present her with unearthly treasures, and even the emperor who could not win her love. There were also several scenes with warring villagers that were really cool, but I thought the most effective message was the contrast between ancient world and modernity.
The story of Kaguyahime is a Japanese folktale dating back to the 10th century, and the fact that it was being presented in Paris, a city of equal age but of diametrically different heritage was cool. The orchestra was also presented in the same manner, traditional with invited taiko drummers and the gagaku wind trio against the setting of plush velvet and guilded seats and balconies of 18th century Paris finery. And then the story itself -presented in modern interpretation, with minimalism and appropriate balance between extravagant flourish and calm composure. The most modern aspects about Kaguyahime ballet, other than the choreography, was the lighting and the jarring use of bold light and color to express what was not said with costume and set. It reminded me a lot of my cousin's hiphop shows back in the States where colors drowning the stage in vibrance were an extension of the dance itself.
Overall, it was a pretty cool ballet. I wouldn't have chosen it myself so I'm really glad to have been exposed to something out of my element. Afterwards we snuck into one of the private rooms because again, it was a scene in Anastasia where Dimitri was trying to get the Dowager Empress to check out Anastasia, lawlz.

Super cool!

End of Week 3 in Paris

And what a long week it's been! In the first couple weeks it's easy to forget we came to Paris to study, but with the homework load building up, its definitely hitting me. Not sure I can complain though I can complain though, seeing as we go on field trips every week. One that I wasn't expecting was la Grande Mosquee de Paris, a central hub for Muslims in Paris.

One thing most people don't expect of Paris is the long history of colonisation and the populations of North African and Middle Eastern people who have immigrated here after the decline of imperialism. During the Occupation of World War II when France was mostly under German command under the Vichy puppet government, many soldiers were recruited from the colonies and helped liberate France from the Nazis. As a thank you to these colonial soldiers, this mosque was built in the Islam tradition and it is so beautiful you don't  even have to be Muslim to appreciate it.

 This is the courtyard you walk into upon entering. First thing about Paris and it being so cold, stone floors get really cold and STAY cold. It goes right through your boots and doubled up socks! But our guide was saying that all of the marble, the decor, and the mosaic was contributed from countries like Morocco, Lebanon, Tunisia, Algerie, etc. for its completion.

 This is the prayer room in which you are not allowed to wear shoes. The faithful also wash themselves and purify themselves before entering. The shapes on the floor are for each individual to pray upon and face Mecca. The giant chandelier in the top right hand corner was hand made and donated from a North African country. It was cool to get to understand what Islam is all about beyond the veils and the burka, the media, and the wars in the Middle East.

 This mosaic wall and the bordering above it was all hand done by mosaic artists, each color representing a different thing. It was so mindblowing to see that every tile was laid out by hand. Not pictured : the lattice work that was also hand done. All of this covers the walls of the mosque. Like the stained glass windows of Christian cathedrals its absolutely amazing to see what faith can motivate a person to do.

 The Koran that was hand written and hand decorated located in the Mosquee's library.

 This library contains 2,000 books on Islam and Muslim literature, all in Arabic, French, and English. It was pretty cool. Even the cedar wood that the ceiling is made of is symbolic of Muslim ideals. The outside gardens:

Hand embroidered prayer mats and the chandeliers were also beautiful, commissioned in the Middle East and brought to the Mosquee.

The tea room where we had mint tea with honey afterwards. In Paris, it is always good to look upwards. Ceilings are incredible beautiful and ornate in any monument.

 This tea room allowed for birds to come in and fly back and forth as they please, they mostly just hung out on the chandelier. But sometimes they would perch on the empty tables and hang out. I don't think the people in there were Muslim, but they were just sitting and enjoying a cup of tea. I think that although in the US there is a strong taboo of Muslims, France has some of these taboos but at the same time it is so ingrained in the history since the time of the colonies that for the most part, it is appreciated at least as a culture site or a grand art piece. While we were there there was a group of young French children on their own field trip on our same tour. I think it helps that children here are groomed in culture and art from a very young age, and that it helps cultivate an appreciation and understanding of the differences around them. It was very cool to see the Mosquee and understand the depth behind Islam, I don't think I would've visited one in San Diego.

 Afterwards we took a walk in the garden and along the Seine as we went to catch a bus. I asked the professor why trees are so square in French gardens, because it is the same at Jardin des Tuileries, and she said that it's because it is the French aesthetic prefers square trees, simply put. lol coolio!

Overall, cool trip. I thoroughly enjoy these field trips and look forward to taking more!

First Week in Paris Complete!

Wow, what a week its been! I feel like we've done so much but we've barely scratched the surface!

These past few days we've been settling into the apartments, wandering around our new abodes, and getting to know the area we're in. For a few more days we were plagued by jetlag. It's gotten better but I still wake up at 7:30 every morning surprised to find that even the sun hasn't gotten up yet. In fact  the sun doesn't rise until about 8:30 and until then, the streets are quiet and the city is still only thinking about waking up. I think it sets the leisurely tone that is so prevalent in French culture and daily routine. I could get used to this.

My second day here one of my friends, a foreign exchange student we hosted a couple years back, came to Paris to visit me in Montparnasse. He's a baker's apprentice and was on his way to Strausbourg in the east to stage a few weeks in a bakery as part of his apprenticeship. It was so great to see a familiar face! It was when he came that I had the guts to go into a sit-down restaurant and go through the process of ordering a meal for myself from a French server. As it turns out, the French eat much later in the day than Americans do. Lunch is typically around noon but has a tendency to be drawn out until about 2 or 3. Dinner is around 7pm with most people coming out at around 8 or 9.

Since my first time in a restaurant and arriving at the dorms, my friends and I have tried different brasseries wherever we are. I've tried classics like croque madame and soup a l'ognion gratinee, and of course plenty of coffee. None have disappointed and always the service is the most courteous and unobtrusive. It's been the best way to just enjoy new found friends while trying la cuisine francaise. I don't even wanna think about the day I have to leave this all behind :

 First meal: Savory tarte (eggy, but not dense and cheesy like a quiche) with chicken and mushrooms, sweet and tangy carrot salad, tomato couscous, green salad comes with most every meal usually with a light mystery dressing.

 Croque Madames are a bistro classic- either open face like this or like a sandwich with ham in the middle and broiled on top with a fried egg. Amaaaazing. Croque Monsieurs are the same thing but without the egg. Still yummy either way! Bakeries across town also sell them premade and cheaper for you to bring home (emporter) and warm up and have at home.

 Creme Brulee- No meal would be complete without dessert! Even if you aren't in a patisserie all restaurants have amazing desserts that probably come from the surrounding patisseries anyways. Same with the wine, same with the bread. Nothing in Paris disappoints!

I had been dying to try this for so long! Soup a l'ognion gratinee is French onion soup usually made with caramelized onions and beef stock. Topped with cheese and toasted bread, it was perfect for the super chilly windy days that we've been having. And of course, fries. I dipped them in my soup :)

Speaking of bread, one Parisien tradition that is so easy to get accustomed to is buying our daily bread at the local  bakeries (boulangeries). In the morning we stop by to grab a croissant or brioche before class, and in the afternoon or evening we come back for a baguette for meals. And this is normal! The bakeries and patisseries also sell mouthwatering pastries and sandwiches to go. Fast food is something different here, even the McDonalds (MacDo) seem more gourmet than in the States. There are also an abundance of Middle Eastern and Chinese to go shops along the streets as well selling everything from dim sum specialties to halal and gyros. Now that I've mastered the restaurant process, it's time to try more ethnic cuisine from the different nationalities that have immigrated here over time. French colonization has brought North African, Turkish, Jewish, and Carribbean fast food here for quite cheap. This weekend is Chinese New Year, and being Vietnamese I'm making it a mission to find pho in Paris when we go to the 13e arrondissement for celebrations and amazing Asian food.

Looking forward to discovering the rest of Paris as a touring student. It's definitely worth coming here as a student and actually living here for a while, immersing in the student life as opposed to being a tourist and relying on hearsay and curiosity.